Khiva: Uzbekistan’s Magical Desert City – Ultimate Travel Guide
Khiva stands as a mesmerizing testament to Uzbekistan’s rich Silk Road heritage, where ancient architecture and timeless traditions blend within perfectly preserved walls. This comprehensive guide explores everything you need to know about Khiva, from its must-see attractions and dining options to accommodation and practical travel tips.
What Makes Khiva Special?
Khiva’s uniqueness stems from its remarkably intact walled city, creating an immersive historical experience unlike any other in Central Asia. Once an important trading post in the Kyzyl kum desert of Karakalpakstan, Khiva was most famous on the Silk Road for its slave trade. Today, this ancient city has transformed into a living museum where history comes alive within its well-preserved walls.
The city’s mystical charm lies in its stunning blue mosaics and sandcastle-style buildings that evoke images of bygone eras. Almost all noteworthy sites are conveniently located within the walled Itchan Kala (Inner City), which became Uzbekistan’s first UNESCO World Heritage site in the early 1990s.
Is Khiva Better Than Bukhara?
Khiva and Bukhara each offer unique experiences. Khiva is more compact and feels like an open-air museum, while Bukhara offers more authentic back-alley strolls and everyday Uzbek life. As one traveler noted, “Khiva is unique. Walking through it is like being transported in time, moreso than Bukhara or Samarkand”. The architecture in Khiva is generally older, with palaces you cannot find elsewhere.
How Many Days Do You Need in Khiva?
For most travelers, 2-3 days is ideal for exploring Khiva thoroughly. As one traveler described, “If you have time on your itinerary then definitely make sure you allocate at least two days to explore the ancient city”. The city is compact enough that you can see the main highlights in a single day if pressed for time, but a more leisurely pace allows you to fully appreciate the details and atmosphere.
Top 10 Attractions in Khiva
1. Itchan Kala (Inner City)
The walled old town of Khiva is the heart of the city and a UNESCO World Heritage site. With pedestrian-friendly streets showcasing over 400 traditional structures and 60 historical monuments, Itchan Kala offers a relaxed, enchanting atmosphere.
2. Kalta Minor Minaret
This is Khiva’s most iconic sight. Unlike most minarets that are tall and slender, the Kalta Minor is short and wide, adorned with spectacular turquoise tilework. Construction began in 1851 with the aim of creating a minaret visible from Bukhara, but the Khan leading its construction died before it could be finished.
3. Juma Mosque
The Juma Mosque is distinguished by its 212 wooden columns and innovative natural lighting. This historic mosque offers visitors a serene and culturally rich experience with its unique forest-like atmosphere inside.
4. Citadel Kunya-ark
The Kuhna Ark was where Khiva’s rulers lived and made decisions that shaped their khanate. Built in the 12th century, it contained the khan’s harem, mint, stables, barracks, mosque, and jail. At the back of the throne, a door leads to a watchtower which offers spectacular views over the city.
5. Stone Palace (Tash Khauli)
The Tosh-hovli Palace may be one of the most beautiful buildings in Khiva. Built between 1832 and 1841, it features spectacular tile work, ornate patterns, and swirling calligraphy, as well as stone and wood carving with vibrant oranges and reds complementing the blue tile work.
6. Pakhlavan Makhmud Mausoleum
This sacred mausoleum features a striking green dome (contrasting with the usual blue) and intricate interior tile work. Pakhlavan Mahmoud was a poet, philosopher, and wrestler who became Khiva’s patron saint. The decoration inside is nothing short of spectacular.
7. Islam Khodja Minaret
The Islam Khodja Minaret offers breathtaking views for those willing to climb to the top. As one visitor suggests, you should “climb the Islam Khodja Minaret for a breathtaking view of the city”.
8. Muhammad Amin-khan Madrasah
Located just to the right of Kalta Minor Minaret, this is the largest historic religious school in all of Central Asia. The minaret associated with this madrasah is “beautifully tiled in hues of greens and blues”.
9. Khorezm Silk Museum
This silk-making experience is set in a charming old mosque, where visitors can engage in dyeing and weaving masterclasses. Learn the history and process of silk production in an interactive setting.
10. The Walls of Itchan Kala
The city walls that set Khiva apart from other Uzbek silk road cities are still in excellent condition. The northwestern sections can be accessed close to the Kuhna Ark and are particularly spectacular at sunset.
Best Things to Do in Khiva
Explore Itchan Kala on Foot
Khiva is “a great walkers town, set up brilliantly to explore on foot”. Wander through the narrow streets and discover hidden corners and architectural details.
Watch the Sunset from the City Walls
“As the sun sets, the Itchan Kala’s western walls change from sandy yellow to dark orange. A sight that evokes images of bygone era’s, the ancient Silk Road, the great game, and the Russian conquest”. Many guesthouses have rooftop bars where you can enjoy this spectacular view.
See the City Awaken
Experience Khiva in the early morning hours before tourists arrive to enjoy the peaceful atmosphere and perfect lighting for photography.
Visit the Medicine Museum at Shergozikhan Madrasa
Take a wander around this interesting museum housed in a historic madrasa for a glimpse into traditional medicine practices.
Experience Silk Production
Learn about traditional silk production methods at the interactive Khorezm Silk Museum with demonstrations of silk weaving.
What to Buy in Khiva
Khiva offers a variety of traditional crafts and souvenirs:
- Traditional Carpets and Textiles: Handmade carpets and textiles throughout the city, particularly in the bazaars
- Silk Products: Scarves, clothing, and decorative items
- Ceramic Pottery: Traditional blue and white ceramics
- Woodcarvings: Intricate boxes, chess sets, and decorative items
- Miniature Paintings: Detailed paintings depicting scenes from Khiva and Uzbek history
The best place to shop is the bazaar near Allakuli Khan Madrasa, which has “plenty of interesting bits and pieces for sale”.
Best Places to Eat in Khiva
Zerafshan Chaikhana
Consistently ranked among the top restaurants in Khiva, Zerafshan Chaikhana offers a nice selection of food, good service, and traditional dishes of the Khorezm region.
Bir Gumbaz
Located in the middle of Khiva facing the Kalta Minor, this family-run restaurant offers an extensive menu and various teas/coffees. The outdoor seating area is perfect for watching sunset over Khiva. Visitors particularly recommend their coffee and baklava.
Mirzaboshi
Located at 1 Pahlavan Mahmud Street, this cozy restaurant serves national cuisine, with popular dishes including gumma (fried patties) and Khorezm kebab.
National House Zaynab
Renowned throughout Itchan-Kala for both hospitality and delicious homemade cuisine. Popular dishes include pilaff, shuit ashi (green spaghetti), tukhum barak (egg ravioli), and dimlama.
Budget-Friendly Options
For more affordable options, several small cafes outside the eastern gate of Itchan Kala are worth exploring. “If you head out of the eastern gate and turn right you will find a phenomenal restaurant serving some exquisite shashlik. Due to the fact that it’s outside of the city walls, it sees very few tourists”.
Best Coffee in Khiva
Bir Gumbaz is highly recommended for coffee lovers. Multiple reviewers praised their coffee, with one noting it was “excellent coffee and possibly the best baklava ever”. The café provides a perfect spot to relax and people-watch while enjoying quality beverages.
Top 10 Hotels in Khiva
1. Hotel Arkanchi
Centrally located with easy access to sights, offering clean, spacious rooms and helpful, English-speaking staff.
2. Polvon Qoriy Boutique Hotel
Historic hotel near the old city gate with authentic atmosphere, spacious rooms, and a peaceful courtyard.
3. Orient Star Khiva Hotel
Set in a converted madrassa within Khiva’s old city walls, featuring unique rooms with balconies and courtyard views.
4. Khiva Siyovush Hotel
Run by a helpful and friendly family, this spotlessly clean hotel offers amazing breakfasts and good WiFi.
5. Zukhro Boutique Hotel
Centrally located with beautifully decorated rooms and a terrace offering wonderful views of Ichon Qala.
6. Hotel Bankir Khiva
Newer hotel (opened May 2023) featuring modern amenities, barbecue facilities, and multiple breakfast options.
7. UMAR Hotel
Featuring a garden and restaurant with 24-hour front desk service and rooms with flat-screen TVs and air conditioning.
8. Sarbon Hotel
Offering a bar, terrace, and rooms with modern amenities in a convenient location.
9. MEROS B&B
A highly-rated bed and breakfast with helpful staff who assist with logistics and serve amazing breakfasts.
10. Khiva Polvonnazir Guest House
Located minutes from all major sites in the old town, with attentive hosts who cater to guests’ needs.
Day Trips from Khiva
Khiva serves as an excellent base for exploring the surrounding region:
Daytrip to Ayaz Kala
A 5-6 hour trip covering 205 km, with 1-2 hours of sightseeing ancient desert fortresses.
Daytrip to Five Fortresses
A 7-8 hour journey featuring multiple ancient structures, with 3-4 hours of sightseeing.
Daytrip to Nukus Museum and Four Fortresses
An extensive 8-12 hour trip covering 465 km, combining cultural attractions with historical sites.
Daytrip to the Elliq-Qala Fortresses
Explore these ancient desert structures for a fascinating glimpse into the region’s history.
Daytrip to Kalajik Kala & Lake
A shorter 4-6 hour trip covering 160 km, perfect for those with limited time.
24 Hours in Khiva: Sample Itinerary
Morning
- 7:00 AM: See the city awaken with a walk along the northern section of the city walls.
- 8:00 AM: Breakfast at your hotel or a local café.
- 9:00 AM: Visit the Kuhna Ark and climb the watchtower for panoramic views.
- 10:30 AM: Explore the Juma Mosque with its unique wooden columns.
- 11:30 AM: Visit the Pakhlavan Makhmud Mausoleum.
Afternoon
- 12:30 PM: Lunch at Zerafshan Chaikhana or another restaurant within the old city.
- 2:00 PM: Visit the Tash Khauli Palace to see its spectacular decorations.
- 3:30 PM: Explore the Islam Khodja Minaret and climb to the top for city views.
- 4:30 PM: Visit the Khorezm Silk Museum.
- 5:30 PM: Shop for souvenirs in the bazaar near Allakuli Khan Madrasa.
Evening
- 6:30 PM: Head to the western city walls to watch the sunset transform the city colors.
- 7:30 PM: Dinner at Bir Gumbaz with outdoor seating to enjoy evening views.
- 9:00 PM: Evening stroll through the illuminated streets of Itchan Kala.
- 10:00 PM: Relax with a drink at a rooftop bar to enjoy night views.
Bars in Khiva
Khiva is not known for vibrant nightlife, but several options exist:
- Rooftop Bars: Many guesthouses within Itchan Kala have rooftop terraces where you can enjoy drinks with views of the illuminated city.
- Hotel Bars: Larger hotels like Hotel Asia Khiva offer bar areas, including one by their outdoor pool.
- Restaurant Bars: Some restaurants, including Bir Gumbaz, serve alcoholic beverages alongside their food offerings.
Khiva Tourism: Practical Information
Best Time to Visit
The ideal times are spring (April to May) and autumn (September to October) when the weather is pleasant. Summers can be extremely hot.
Transportation
- Getting to Khiva: The nearest airport is in Urgench, about 30 km away. Trains connect from Tashkent, Samarkand, and Bukhara.
- Train Information: “If you’re considering a high-speed train, make sure to secure your tickets as soon as possible. There are limited daily departures, and the fast trains tend to fill up quickly”.
- Local Transportation: Most attractions are within walking distance in the old city. For trips outside, use taxis or organized tours.
Entry Fees
A unified ticket system for Itchan Kala covers entry to most major sites. “You can purchase a two-day ticket from the west gate which covers the entrance fees to all of the mosques, madrasas, minarets, and museums inside”.
Tours and Guides
While it’s possible to explore independently, hiring a local guide can enhance your understanding of the city’s rich history. Many hotels can arrange guides, or you can find them at the main entrance gates.
Conclusion
Khiva offers a truly magical experience that transports visitors back to the heyday of the Silk Road. Its compact size, well-preserved architecture, and rich history make it an essential destination for anyone traveling to Uzbekistan. Whether you spend a single day or several exploring its wonders, Khiva will leave an indelible impression with its timeless beauty and cultural significance.
While its isolation might make it slightly more challenging to reach than Samarkand or Bukhara, those who make the journey are rewarded with a more intimate and authentic glimpse into Uzbekistan’s fascinating past. From the stunning tilework of its monuments to the warm hospitality of its people, Khiva embodies the essence of Uzbekistan’s cultural heritage.