Tamgaly-Tas Petroglyphs: Ancient Buddhist Art on the Ili River
Tamgaly-Tas, an extraordinary open-air Buddhist sanctuary located on the banks of the Ili River, represents one of Kazakhstan’s most fascinating historical and cultural sites. Set amid impressive cliffs reaching heights of up to 60 meters, this remarkable site showcases 17th-century Buddhist rock carvings and Tibetan inscriptions that have attracted religious scholars, historians, and tourists from around the world. This comprehensive guide explores the rich history, unique petroglyphs, and practical information for visiting this ancient treasure.
Historical Background and Significance
Tamgaly-Tas (meaning “Painted Rocks” or “Stones with Signs”) dates back to the second half of the 17th century, a period when Dzungar Lamaism was common in South-East Kazakhstan. These exceptional rock carvings were created by Oirat and Tibetan masters with the active participation of Galdan-Huntaydzhi (Galdan Boshugtu Khan), who was known to be deeply religious with extensive knowledge of Buddhist symbolism and Tibetan artistic techniques.
In 1677, Galdan created the first “iconostasis” featuring the figure of Bodhisattva Avalokiteshvara-Shadakshari, depicted as a deity with four hands sitting in a diamond pose on a Lotus throne. Over the next five years, he and his assistants supplemented the rock with additional images and Tibetan mantras. After the Dzungarian khanate was expelled from Kazakh lands, the former temple received a new name from the Kazakhs – Tamga or Tamgaly-Tas.
The site gained additional historical significance when Ablai Khan and Sultan Abulfeiz placed their tamga (signature or brand) on the famous Tamgaly-Tas stone after the Dzungars’ expulsion, confirming the ownership of the territory by the Uysun and Naiman tribes. In 1771, the last inscription was created on the rocks—a thanksgiving praise left by the Volga Kalmyks.
For approximately 175 years, starting from the mid-19th century, prominent scientists and researchers have studied the prayer texts and iconostases, including Ch. Ch. Valikhanov (1856), K.A. Larionov (1877), and more recently, researchers like I.V. Erofeeva and A.E. Rogozhinsky (2008-2010).
The Legend of Tamgaly-Tas
According to local legend, the Buddhist petroglyphs were created after a massive earthquake struck as a caravan traveled along the river. Witnesses observed huge boulders falling from towering cliffs into the water, forming a natural crossing. The pilgrims interpreted this event as divine intervention and were able to cross to safety. Even today, a natural river crossing can be seen near the petroglyphs.
Understanding the Petroglyphs
Buddhist Imagery and Inscriptions
The Tamgaly-Tas site consists of 18 inscribed rocks distributed among 15 separate scattered blocks at the foot of the river. The collection includes one boulder with three Buddha images and two separate rocks with one image of Buddha each.
The central rock features an image of Arya Avalokitesvara Bodhisattva, the subject of the famous Buddhist mantra “Om Mani Padme Hum.” An inscription near this image reads “I worship the holy Avalokiteshvara”. To the right, at a height of four meters, is an image of Shakyamuni Buddha with the inscription “Bow to Shakyamuni Buddha,” while to the left are carved images of Buddhist deities of healing.
Artistic Style and Cultural Significance
What makes these petroglyphs particularly remarkable is the unique artistic style achieved through the fine art of stone carving with delicate contour lines. The large size, unique appearance, and religious inscriptions distinguish them from other petroglyphs in Central Asia, making them an important part of the region’s cultural heritage.
The petroglyphs remain well-preserved and maintain a high degree of authenticity, with the text still legible, praising the teachings of Buddha with gracious speech. This site offers valuable insights into the spread of Buddhism along the Silk Road and the cultural exchanges that characterized Central Asia’s history.
Tamgaly-Tas vs. Tanbaly: Important Distinction
It’s important to note that Tamgaly-Tas should not be confused with the UNESCO World Heritage Site called Tamgaly (or Tanbaly), which is located about 170 kilometers northwest of Almaty. While Tanbaly features much older petroglyphs dating back to the Bronze Age with images depicting the evolution of human culture, Tamgaly-Tas is distinguished by its Buddhist iconography and more recent origins.
The City of Nomads
Film Set Turned Tourist Attraction
Just across the Ili River from Tamgaly-Tas stands the “City of Nomads” (or Nomad’s Castle/Fortress), a medieval city replica built specifically for the filming of the Kazakh-French historical movie “Nomad: The Warrior” in 2004. This film was Kazakhstan’s entry for the Best Foreign Language Film at the 79th Academy Awards and was the most expensive Kazakh movie ever made at that time. The impressive set was also used for filming the Russian fantasy film “Day Watch”.
Architecture and Historical Representation
The scenery of this medieval city is majestic and elegant, featuring a real fortress with huge gates, domes, and towers that express the spirit of the Middle Ages with remarkable detail. The fortress exhibits a high degree of historical accuracy, designed as a ‘Caravanserai’ – an inn on the Silk Road where travelers could rest and recover from their journey.
Within the City of Nomads, visitors can explore residential houses, religious buildings, a dungeon, a well, and a mosque with minarets. There are also reconstructed medieval weapons of defense and watchtowers that provide insight into the defensive architecture of the period.
Visitor Experience
The fortress stands on the Ili River bank, surrounded by rocks in a picturesque location where the steppe extends into the distance. Visitors will need to pay an entrance fee (1000 tenge as of 2021-2022) to enter the City of Nomads, and the territory keeper can conduct an excursion upon request. The combination of historical representation and natural beauty makes this a worthwhile addition to any visit to Tamgaly-Tas.
Planning Your Visit
Getting There from Almaty
Tamgaly-Tas is located approximately 120 kilometers north of Almaty, on the right bank of the Ili River. To reach the site:
- Follow the Kapchagai highway from Almaty heading north.
- Pass through Kapchagai town and cross the bridge over the Ili River.
- Turn left at the fork, in the direction of Bakanas (northwest).
- Drive about 19 km on the Bakanas road and then turn left into the steppe at a sign “Range of MES”.
- Follow the ground road for the next 15 km, turning left as you descend into the Ili valley.
- Look for large gates in Chinese style and a high rock massif as reference points.
The total driving time from Almaty is approximately 1.5-2 hours each way, depending on road conditions
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Transportation Options
- Self-drive: An SUV or 4×4 vehicle is highly recommended as the roads beyond the main highway are rough ground trails that may become impassable during wet conditions.
- Organized tours: Numerous travel agencies in Almaty offer day trips to Tamgaly-Tas and the City of Nomads, which is often the most convenient option for visitors.
Best Time to Visit
Tamgaly-Tas can be visited year-round, but weather conditions vary significantly:
- Spring: Beautiful but potentially muddy trails due to melting snow
- Summer: Warm and dry, but can be extremely hot with temperatures reaching up to 45°C
- Autumn: Pleasant temperatures and stable weather conditions
- Winter: Cold (down to -15°C) but the site remains accessible
Facilities and What to Bring
Visitors should be aware that facilities at Tamgaly-Tas are very limited:
- No shops or cafés in the area
- No sources of drinking water (water in the Ili River is not potable)
- No cellular coverage in Tamgaly-Tas and along the Ili River
- The last petrol station is in Kapchagai town
Therefore, visitors should bring:
- Sufficient drinking water and food
- Appropriate clothing for the weather conditions
- Comfortable walking shoes
- Sun protection (hat, sunglasses, sunscreen)
- Bug spray
- Camera for photography
- Cash for entrance fees and any unexpected expenses
Activities at Tamgaly-Tas and Ili River
Exploring the Petroglyphs
The primary attraction is the collection of Buddhist petroglyphs, which typically takes 1.5-3 hours to explore thoroughly. The rock carvings are best viewed in the afternoon when strong sunlight reaches them, enhancing their visibility and detail.
Outdoor Adventures
The area offers numerous additional activities for outdoor enthusiasts:
Trekking and Hiking
The terrain around Tamgaly-Tas provides excellent opportunities for hiking, with walking tours generally rated as easy and accessible for most visitors.
Camping
Tamgaly-Tas is popular among Almaty residents as a weekend camping destination. Visitors can set up tents along the Ili River bank for an overnight stay, allowing them to experience the area’s tranquility and natural beauty.
Water Activities
The Ili River provides opportunities for rafting, kayaking, and fishing. Some tour operators offer these water activities as alternatives or additions to visiting the main sites.
Rock Climbing
The high rock walls facing the Ili River have attracted rock climbers since the 1970s, with the cliffs now offering comfortable conditions for sport and free climbing.
Photography
Both the petroglyphs and the stunning natural landscape present excellent photography opportunities throughout the day, with changing light conditions creating different perspectives on the ancient rock art.
Tour Options and Prices
Standard Day Tours
A typical full-day tour (approximately 8-9 hours) generally includes:
- Transportation from Almaty to Tamgaly-Tas and back
- English-speaking guide
- Walking tour of the petroglyph site
- Visit to the City of Nomads
- Water and lunch
- Entrance tickets
Tour Schedules
A standard tour schedule often follows this pattern:
- 8:00 AM: Departure from Almaty
- 11:00 AM: Arrival at the City of Nomads, walking tour
- 1:00 PM: Lunch
- 2:00 PM: Drive to Tamgaly-Tas
- 3:00 PM: Excursion around the petroglyphs
- 4:00-5:00 PM: Drive back to Almaty
- 7:00-8:00 PM: Return to Almaty
Price Ranges
Tour prices typically vary based on the number of participants (prices as of 2021-2023):
- 1 person: $130-250 per person
- 2 people: $120-140 per person
- 3 people: $100-110 per person
- 4 people: $80-100 per person
- 5 people: $70-90 per person
- 6+ people: $80 per person
For an SUV with a driver (regardless of the number of people, up to 5 people): approximately $201
Customized Tour Options
Some tour operators offer alternatives such as:
- Rafting on the Ili River instead of visiting the City of Nomads
- Extended multi-day camping trips at the Ili riverbank
- Combined tours with visits to other attractions in the region
Nearby Attractions
While planning a visit to Tamgaly-Tas, travelers might consider exploring other notable sites in the region:
Kapchagay Reservoir
Located just 20 kilometers southeast of Tamgaly-Tas, this reservoir offers beaches and various water activities.
Tanbaly Petroglyphs (UNESCO World Heritage Site)
Located about 170 kilometers northwest of Almaty, this UNESCO site features approximately 5,000 petroglyphs dating from the second millennium BC to the beginning of the 20th century. The central canyon contains the densest concentration of engravings and what are believed to be ancient altars.
Altyn-Emel National Park
Located northeast of Tamgaly-Tas, this national park features diverse landscapes, including the famous Singing Dunes.
Charyn Canyon
Though further away (east of Almaty), Charyn Canyon is often included in extended itineraries of the region and offers spectacular scenery often compared to the Grand Canyon on a smaller scale.
Practical Tips for Visitors
Safety Considerations
- Be aware that there is limited or no cellular coverage in the area
- If traveling independently, inform someone of your plans
- Carry a basic first aid kit
- Watch for uneven terrain when exploring the rock formations
Cultural Respect
- The petroglyphs are important cultural and historical artifacts – do not touch or damage them
- Follow your guide’s instructions and stay on designated paths
- Photography is permitted, but be respectful of the site’s religious significance
Weather Preparation
- Dress in layers to adjust to changing temperatures
- Be prepared for extreme conditions depending on the season
- Check weather forecasts before departing Almaty
Conclusion
Tamgaly-Tas Petroglyphs represent a unique intersection of religious art, history, and natural beauty in Kazakhstan. The combination of 17th-century Buddhist rock art, the picturesque Ili River landscape, and the nearby City of Nomads offers visitors a rich cultural experience just a few hours from Almaty. Whether you’re interested in Buddhist iconography, historical rock art, outdoor adventures, or simply experiencing the tranquility of the Kazakh steppe, Tamgaly-Tas provides a fascinating glimpse into Kazakhstan’s diverse cultural heritage and remarkable natural scenery.
By preserving and promoting this important site, Kazakhstan continues to showcase the rich tapestry of cultures that have traversed the region throughout history, making Tamgaly-Tas an essential destination for anyone seeking to understand Central Asia’s complex cultural landscape.
